First Impressions

Singapore, I first thought, was Southeast Asia’s Toronto: diverse, rich, safe, and 409-clean. But after exploring more deeply – wandering the streets and parks, and meeting with counterparts in government, industry, and education – has revealed a distinctly Southeast Asian soul, one I expected in Vietnam and Thailand, but far less so in a country known for its Western-like business regimen. Singapore, at heart, is a melting pot of Southeast Asia, one wrought with diversity and mutual respect; no landed gentry or elites, no ill-fitting colonial structures. While overtly Western on its surface, Singapore, at its core, is Southeast Asian. And here, our adventure begins.

“Singapore, Inc.,” as our embassy called it, represents far more government involvement than I’ve ever seen in a country (and, yes, I’ve been to five Soviet republics and I voted for Obama). A wholly private enterprise – while not forbidden – is practically non-existent. The prime minister, whose party has ruled parliament since 1959, is an uber-CEO. Order reigns; Jaywalk, litter, spit and be fined; the result is a remarkably clean, safe city that rakes in cash and plows it into public works and capital for new business. You can’t argue with results.

If the prime minister is the CEO, the nation of some 4.4 million are all shareholders. For a country with no natural resources, the returns have been staggering; within a few decades, Singapore’s GDP has grown from several hundred dollars to about $35,000 per head. The port, Singapore’s life blood, is the world’s third largest, taking in a fifth of the world’s shipments including all oil supplies to Japan and China (yikes). The government, no fool, sends its talent to study in major universities around the world (one, that I know of, in my Georgetown class), all in efforts to gain return for the shareholders. Ad maiorem patriae gloriam.

While business reigns, Singapore’s cultural soul is distinctly South Asian. Away from the land reclamation projects, the cranes which rival Dubai’s, and the huge waterfront highrises, a quick walk about the various neighborhoods reveals a vibe similar to Manila or Jakarta. Hindu, Buddhist, Tao, and Christian shrines dot the streets; Street food is present and sanitary, signs teem in Hindi, Chinese, Malay, English and other languages. "Sir, please!" reigns as you pass restaurants and vendors. Gargantuan apartment buildings house scores upon scores of people. The mall culture – shop and escape the Equatorial heat – is present. The smaller, and more mixed, population begets a vibrant street atmosphere without the pollution or overcrowding. Traffic is comparatively minimal.

Four days in Raffles’ “Lion City” are a staggering look at business and politics, and how the two can and do indelibly overlap with little friction or ruckus. While single-party rule may irritate Jeffersonians (don’t worry, Darden, we still love you), it strikingly works in a nation-state with less land than Kansas City, more clout over its larger neighbors, and tremendous financial resources to pour back into its people. Indeed, a highlight of any visit to Singapore is interaction with Singaporeans; many of whom were educated, intelligent, Westernized, and quick to point out the government’s role (a 50 year plan: ?!?) in keeping Singapore on Asia’s forefront, an ever glowing red dot drawing increased returns for all.